Ngorogoro: volcanic caldera of genetic diversity

Ngorogoro crater, which is actually a volcanic caldera is interesting geogically from the rim, but looked like it would be disappointing as reputedly the best game viewing in Africa.  We rose at 5am for a 6am drive down the steep slope after a quick coffee.  In the morning on the ground was completely different from the pretty view experience on the rim.  We saw an hour long battle between a lioness and three hyenas, apparently over territory, though other animals like gun occasionally wandered through the fray.  Eventually, the howling barking hyenas retreated, not particularly interested in the ample game nearby.

We are now in pursuit of our final major game, the elusive black rhino of which there are fifteen here.  While we waited between lion matings, I've been scanning the grasslands and forest areas for rhinos and there can not be any nearby, but this caldera is 20km across, so they could be far away.

Bored with zebra, gnu, gazelles, even lions, most of my safari mates are asleep.  I've kept busy keeping track of the endless bird species, certainly the most diverse and colourful part of the ecosystem here. I've never been much of a birder, but I'm getting pretty good at recognising a lot of species and subspecies, even at a distance.

Now we're watching lions mate, and it's incredibly similar to snow leopard mating; he mounts her for ten seconds, walks off, and she rolls on her back.  The big difference is that he has a harem of three from which to choose.  The harem lie parallel to each other, not in the orthogonal configuration the females use when hunting.  Alas, this is his main job, since he is not really built for hunting, too slow with his bulky mane.

The local rangers are parked under a tree up the caldera slope about 2km away across a river.. Who are tracking a black rhino!  Score!  Brian was able to take a great pic with his big lens.  Who knows how the iPhone will perform?  After fifteen minutes, the rhino began running down the river, unfortunately away from us.  So we're off to lunch and then more rhino spotting.